A FORTNIGHT IN FRENCH PARADISE

Hard as it is to believe, it’s a full two weeks since we arrived in French Polynesia. And what have we done? A lot, and vey little. As you’ll recall, after checking in to FP in Hiva Oa we abandoned its very rolly anchorage and headed for Baie Hanamoenoa on île Tahuata, a golden-sanded, palm tree lined, delightful bay just 10nm from Hiva Oa. And we’ve been here ever since.

We’ve relaxed, explored the beach, swam, swum with mantas, snorkeled, explored the local village of Vaitahu two bays over by dinghy, hung out at a beach bonfire with friends, swum with mantas, hung out in the water on floaties, been serenaded by locals at a restaurant in Vaitahu, listened to the locals singing beautifully at Vaitahu’s charming church (built with ballast stones from old wooden ships), harvested wild limes, machete’d our first coconuts, swum with mantas, played card games with friends, hiked a little, paddle boarded, and swum with mantas. Oh, and - boat life - we’ve filled a water tank with our rain catcher (first time!) and repaired both heads on board. One needed unplugging (yes, ewwww) and the other needed its macerator replaced (also ewwww). I’ve now worked on boat heads so much I’ve an honourary degree in marine psychiatry. Yes, the doctor is in.

Does little ol’ New Zealand have a sphere of influence? It may be a light touch, but here in the South Pacific we’re seeing it. My Kiwi status seems to be more interesting than my US one, the locals know and respect Māori culture (“hey, Pakeha!” was one cheerful greeting), there are Kiwi brands (Mallowpuffs!) in the grocery stores, and as soon as we logged on to the internet we started getting NZ rather than US advertising banners. I feel like we’re getting into NZ’s ‘hood. And it feels good.

What’s next? We’ll, we’ve adopted an “island planning” approach, in that we’ve not really made any plans and are going with the flow depending on weather, waves, resupply needs, trash disposal, and our whim. Loosely, we think we’ll go back into Hiva Oa after the resupply ship has been there on Thursday - everyone gets kicked out of the anchorage when the Aranui comes in - and spend a few days exploring that island some more given the swell is supposed to be smaller than during our last visit. We’ll then probably head south towards Fatu Hiva for a bit. If you zoom in on your preferred mapping app (or our tracker, right here!), you’ll see it there about 45 nm off to the southeast. That’s what we think today, anyway. Come back in a few days and we’ll know more. Until then, adieu!