BACK IN THE SEA

After a couple months off the boat stateside, it was fantastic to have Tino Pai recommissioned and underway again for our last few months in the Sea of Cortez - at least for the foreseeable future as it's hard to consider never coming back here. And the Sea turned it on with glorious sunsets, warm water, and a lovely calm anchorage for our first night out at Bahia San Pedro. We’d hardly stopped smiling since casting off the dock lines at San Carlos... it was great to be back!

We reached La Gringa in Bahia de las Angeles on 12th October, which was to be our northernmost stop for the season. We'd overnighted at La Mona in the southern part of the bay the previous night, before heading up to this northernmost point in search of what are proving to be elusive whale sharks. We were at least able to enjoy a few mescalitas at Playa Blanca, the cute beach bar at La Mona. We celebrated Shan’s “NZ Birthday” at La Gringa with some tasty steaks and a couple of Aperol Spritzes, and yet another fabulous Baja sunset. For her actual birthday we planned to scout for those pesky whale sharks and start the long trek south - though with short hops initially - towards the bottom of Baja and then on Zihuantanejo.

As there were no whale sharks to be found at La Gringa, on October 13 - Shan’s birthday - we motored the short distance to Bahia de los Angeles (BLA) village to resupply and have a meal to celebrate. Readying the dinghy to go into town in the anchorage, we noticed some activity just a little outside the anchorage and, hoping it might be whale sharks, dinghied over to investigate. It was! We had an amazing 30 minutes watching several of these huge and majestic creatures feeding around the dinghy (click on the image to enlarge it). They ignored us, sometimes swimming directly under the dinghy and giving us a true perspective of their gigantic size. Shan was elated at this birthday treat! We enjoyed a meal ashore followed by cocktails on the boat watching the sun set over the mountains behind the village.

The BLA westerlies were kicking up again, so we headed off the next morning for better shelter. Punta el Pescador is our favorite anchorage in Bahia de las Animas, just east of Bahia de Los Angeles, and it offers great west protection in a scenic setting. We decided to stay for a few days and enjoy relaxing in one spot while waiting for a forecast northerly to ride south.

El Pescador offers a great view west over the beach for watching the sun set, with a lower skyline we were able to enjoy several magnificent sunsets and watch comet Tsuchinshan-Atlas appear in the darkness. Last visible 80,000 years ago (hello, Neanderthals), the comet’s tail was clear across the western sky. It was humbling to watch it and think of our small place in the universe.

We were more than ready to get the spearguns out for the first time this season, so set off hunting around the point in lovely warm and clear waters. It was a success, we both landed two nice fish: two Hogfish for Shan and a Hogfish and Grouper for Andy. The fridge was full, and we’ll well for the remainder of our stay!

We’re now watching the weather and looking to catch a northerly forecast for Saturday down to Santa Rosalia. We’ll prep the boat for another overnighter, and while we’ll be sad to leave this wonderful place in the sea, we know that it gets chilly up here as soon as the northerlies start. It’s time to move south…