NORTHERS DRIVE US SOUTH

The theme of our southward trek in Tino Pai through November and December was the increasing frequency of the sea's infamous northerlies, howling down the Gulf of California. Often lasting four or five days, these vigorous winds can pin sailors in safe harbors and may only abate for a few days at a time. Not wanting to ride them southward too quickly - though they are excellent for that - we sheltered between blows and enjoyed taking our time down the coast. In this update we make our way from San Juanico to Los Frailes at the south end of the Baja Peninsula, and cross to the mainland...

With Christmas nearing, seasonal artworks lined the malecon. Shan was quick to get all seasonal and in the Holiday spirit.

We departed Los Frailes for the mainland on December 21st. No sooner were the lines out than Shan landed this lovely Dorado (aka Mahi Mahi).

Dorados provide a lot of meat, so once Andy had filleted it, Shan set to work steaking it for vacuum packing and freezing.

Shortly afterward Andy landed his own Dorado, and we were well set with fresh fish for the passage and beyond. Well stocked, we pulled the lines in.

Our small fleet taken from shore at Ensenada Grande. From left to right; SV Tasi, SV Rio Salado, and SV Tino Pai. Cruising with buddy boats is a great part of the lifestyle.

It's always a pleasure to return to our home after a day out and about, and Tino Pai makes a welcome sight. The sunsets at Ensenada Grande were top notch!

The northerly duly arrived, and as we sat it out Andy made some tasty, fresh, gluten-free bread served hot with butter. Thanks to Michelle on Sancerre for the recipe!

Tino Pai (R) and our buddy boat SV Tasi (L) sitting out another blow in Puerto Balandra, Isla del Carmen. The northerlies were better endured with good company!

We took the time to explore Puerto Balandra with Shelly & Rodd on Tasi. The ridgeline hike offered great views of the harbor, and of Loreto and its surrounding islands.

We sheltered from a northerly at Puerto Escondido and took the time to visit Loreto for provisions and fun with Rodd & Shelly. Loreto is a favorite stop for our crew.

Leaving Puerto Escondido, we were driven out of Agua Verde by a mean swell. We ran down to San Evaristo where Shan shot a Hogfish - a delicious dinner ensued!

Our next stop was Ensenada Grande at Isla Partida. Shan maintained her hot streak with the speargun and landed this nice sized Grouper. It's a favorite of ours.

We were joined by our friends Tom & Theresa on Rio Salado at Ensenada Grande and enjoyed sundowners on the beach together with Rodd & Shelly on Tasi.

This picture of Tasi at Ensenada de la Raza shows what the northerlies are like even in shelter. Note the whitecaps a short distance from the shore to windward.

We farewelled our buddy boats at Espiritu Santos and had a nice sail into La Paz for much needed provisions & diesel ahead of our crossing to the mainland.

Hurricane Norma had passed through La Paz since our last visit; sadly, there were boat wrecks everywhere. This yacht at the channel entrance made a gloomy sight.

We've written about how much we like La Paz's malecon. It's lovely to stroll along at sunset on a warm and balmy evening, with the classic Mexican rainbow place sign.

The malecon has a number of statues and art works, our favorite is the whale shark, with the Humpback and dolphins close behind. The anchorage is the background.

La Paz skyline with the dome of the cathedral. We were amused by the wrought iron Jesus on the cross to the left. Mexico's Catholicism is ever present.