THE CHALLENGING ART OF SLOWING DOWN

Another couple of weeks have eased by as we’ve been easing ourselves into an easier pace. And, I’ve found, it’s not all that easy. Shan’s been quick to enjoy the slower pace, but I’ve had this odd feeling that I should be doing something more, moving somewhere else, keeping up momentum, or something like that. It’s probably a hangover from all the time and focus on readying the boat and crossing to get here, and I’m working hard on getting over it. I’m not complaining, mind you, it’s merely a curious feeling that I need to kick. We do, after all, have time. Lots of it. Most boats have 90 days to explore French Polynesia; we have a full year. And while it’s hard to see friends move on westward without us, we’ve our own plan and our own time to spend here. There’s no need to be moving on to the next anchorage too quickly, we’ve time to relax, chill, settle in and explore each new bay.

In the time since the last blog we did, as promised, return to Atuona on Hiva Oa to resupply. Atuona is like an eccentric aunt; it can be fun to hang out, interesting times may be had, but it can get awkward and quickly become a bit much. The small township is nice, it has a decent supermarket - pricey, of course - and it’s a great base from which to explore the island, which we did, spending a nice day with our friends Curtis and Julie on SV Manna on a tour of the island, visiting old ruins and viewing tikis, and enjoying some of the local fare. I could eat my weight in breadfruit chips, just sayin’.

The main issue is the port at Atuona is on Hiva Oa’s southern coast and exposed to the prevailing SE swell. It has a small anchorage behind its breakwater in which to shelter from the never-ending roll, and boats cram in there. It’s weird to have vessels little more than a boat length away after the open anchorages we’ve been used to in Mexico. It can still surge inside the breakwater, and with different sized boats of varying makes and styles, catamarans and monohulls, all squeezing in together the results can be chaotic. It felt a bit like being in the old Asteroids arcade game, but without the blaster. Also, the anchorage has to be cleared each time a supply ship comes in. We’d planned to stay longer, but after 3 nights we’d had enough and headed back to Tahuata. We were uncomfortable with the little more than 3:1 scope needed to anchor inside the breakwater, and had seen enough of boats dragging and swinging dangerously close to one another to wish to begone. With a warning that the supply ship was due, the die was cast, we were off!

Back here at Baie Hanamoenoa, we’ve spent more time with the mantas - because, mantas! - and have been able to catch up with more Pacific voyagers as they’ve arrived after their own passages. We’d kept in touch with a number of boats making the crossing, and have enjoyed sharing our experiences and catching up over sundowners and bonfires on the beach.

There are two towns on Ilé Tahuata. Vaitahu, just a couple of miles south, we’d visited previously via dinghy a couple of times, and another couple of miles beyond is Hapatoni. We motored to Hapatoni on Tino Pai, we’d heard the anchorage swarms with noseeums and decided a day trip was in order. It was buggy, absolutely, though we spent a nice time ashore exploring the tiny township with its ruins and pretty little church. We met a couple of local artisans; Mike had some work in progress he showed us, before giving us a few bananas to take with us. We then met Sol and his cheerful wife Tehina who showed us some finished items; Shan bought a black pearl bracelet, and I picked out a Marquesan fishhook carved from bone. They then loaded us down with fruit from their property; mangoes, papaya, pamplemousse, limes, soursop, and breadfruit. Beladen, we wandered back to the boat for a quick swim before motoring the short distance to Vaitahu where we anchored, had dinner ashore, and settled in for a blustery night as katabatic winds tumbled down the canyon from the peaks behind the village.

We’ve a couple more days back here in Hanamoenoa, the prop zinc needs replacing and we want to dive the point with our snuba system, and we needed to replace the engine impeller. The engine is running a little hot, and surging at low revs, and we’ve been working through what might be behind that. The old engine is a big red reminder that it’s not all cocktails, beach bonfires and sunsets.

Next? We’ve decided to explore the northern shore of Hiva Oa before heading towards the northern Marquesan islands; Ua-huka, Nuku-Hiva, and Ua-pou. We’ll save Fatu Hiva for on the way south towards our next archipelago in a few months. It will be exciting to explore new anchorages and islands, unhurriedly, of course.